I write to let everyone know that I have arrived safely in Bra, Italy!
The trip was mostly uneventful: I made my tight connection in Paris despite the crush of people and the apparent disdain of the immigrations officials. A member of the slow food staff was waiting in Turin and helped me explain how to say "Please call me when you find my luggage." Which, as it turns out was my first full phrase in Italian.
Yes, it was uneventful except for the landing in Paris, which was bumpy—not from turbulence but from an enormous pillow fight that erupted in my section. Air France has wonderful red pillows, and as it turns out, they are perfect for whomping the living daylights out of your seatmate on either side, in front of you or across the aisle—even across the cabin. My plane, it seemed, was an ark carrying a load of French schoolchildren back to the motherland. Just after the breakfast trays were collected one of them discovered the unique features of the upholstery and promptly thwomped the back of his neighbor's head, knocking the croissant out along with a string of French epithets. Much to the glee of the others the thwomp was returned with interest and the ensuing battle spread like the germs which were no doubt coursing through the jet's air reconditioner.
This lasted for about a half an hour, continuing through the landing, and all despite the earnest attempts of the flight staff to bring the cabin to order. One would come up and give a stern talking, but as soon as she moved down the aisle to attend to the landing process there would be a whisper, a giggle, the smell of subterfuge and then, BAM! Full-on pillow war. When pillows started arcing in from the embattled urchins in the back of the plane I closed my eyes to avoid the carnage.
I have said that I would try to clarify my project for you by way of a detailed list of exactly where I am bound and what I hope to do there. Here is that list.
July 16-31: Bra, Italy
I am here in Italy to collaborate with Slow Food International
(www.slowfood.com ) an organization that works to preserve a slow, pleasure-filled approach to eating and to life, as well as to preserve food biodiversity around the globe. They do this through a number of different channels. Festivals of and for farmers and consumers, a list of endangered foods, guilds of farmers or chefs who produce rare foods, and local chapters in which people gather to appreciate food that is not only delicious but local and responsible (i.e., it pays farmers a decent wage, it doesn't involve dumping pesticides in rivers or chemical additives into stomachs, it supports time honored ways of growing, preparing and eating food).
I encourage everyone to check out Slow Food and to join! I can say from experience they are doing wonderful things all of the time.
The sparsely furnished but quite comfortable home base in Bra, Italy.
Anyway I am here to make contacts for the other countries on my list. Slow Food's network extends into each country I will visit, and they know farmers who will be able to help me learn about work songs in each setting I visit. On Wednesday a large group of traditional musicians will be gathering here to play into the night. One of them specializes in the traditional music of the piedmont (this region of Italy) including the songs of farmers and possibly fishermen. Maybe they will have a lobstering song I can bring back to Maine. Last night at dinner the locals claimed that Mediterranean lobsters tasted better because they are less uptight—they can stretch out in the warm water, unlike Maine lobsters, which spend all of their time shivering. I may get a chance to make a verdict yet.
Well, I must go already. I am requested to tour the office of the Slow Food editore, home of a fabulous collection of books on good food, including excellent guides to New York and Chicago. More when the time comes. And I promise I will finish the list describing the countries and traditions I will visit.
For now know that I am safe and enjoying my Watson Fellowship immensely. Send notes and letters, etc., let me know how you are and any questions I will try to answer when there is the time.
Ciao!
Bennett